Many years ago, when Amato sandwiches were $.29, my wife …

Comment on Maine-Style “Italian” Sandwich by Joe Miller.

Many years ago, when Amato sandwiches were $.29, my wife introduced me to the “Italian Sandwich” from the original India Street store where one could watch (excuse the description) the little old lady spear a tomato, pepper or onion and deftly carve off slices and do the same with the onion and pickle. You thought sure she was going to cut her finger or worse but she carried out her job one sandwich after another. Sometimes depending on the time of day there were as many as twenty sandwiches being worked on at a time in order to meet the demand standing in front of the counter. Today you can find Amato sandwiches across the state but they are not the same. They have the same ingredients but they are put together with chopped onion and peppers and smaller tomato slices so they tend to fall apart as you eat them. In any case when we make our annual trip to Maine the first evening meal is most always an Amato Italian sandwich the first of many we usually eat. Who can go to Maine and not eat an Amato?

Malcolm Bedell is co-author of the critically acclaimed "Eating in Maine: At Home, On the Town, and On the Road," as well as the junk food blog "Spork & Barrel," and "Brocavore," a blog about food trucks and street food culture. His contributions include Serious Eats, Down East, Eat Rockland, L.A. Weekly, The Guardian, and The Huffington Post and his food truck, "'Wich, Please," was named "Hottest Restaurant in Maine" for 2015 by Eater. Finally, he finds it very silly to be trying to write this in the third person.