I adored chocolate-covered cherries when I was a child! But …

Comment on Queen Anne Cherry Cordial Ice Cream by Elsa.

I adored chocolate-covered cherries when I was a child! But even then, the idea was better than the eating. I can practically feel my teeth shivering in sugar-panic.

But! This spring, a friend brought me some chocolates from Old Port Candy that included a luscious, well-balanced chocolate-covered cherry. It was something of a nostalgic revelation to me. Finally, here is the delight I was seeking from those drugstore candies all those years ago: dark aromatic chocolate, the filling sweet but not cloying, with a lush, plump, fruity cherry at its heart. Highly recommended.

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Malcolm Bedell is co-author of the critically acclaimed "Eating in Maine: At Home, On the Town, and On the Road," as well as the junk food blog "Spork & Barrel," and "Brocavore," a blog about food trucks and street food culture. His contributions include Serious Eats, Down East, Eat Rockland, L.A. Weekly, The Guardian, and The Huffington Post and his food truck, "'Wich, Please," was named "Hottest Restaurant in Maine" for 2015 by Eater. Finally, he finds it very silly to be trying to write this in the third person.